Author Topic: CK 1 (ERA) build (Read 396 times)

ChrisS · « **on:** 15 January 2019, 09:46:37 am »

I decided I wanted to build something British for my first cyclekart so I chose an ERA as my inspiration.

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I did some work scaling it into a cyclekart.
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I want to keep it simple so I am planning a plywood tub slung in between the chassis rails, probably pit-bike wheels and regular cyclekart style front suspension, solid at the rear with the axle through the centre of the rails.
Progress to date; steel has been delivered and I've built a mock up tub from hardboard and paper. Predictably, I've had to enlarge the cockpit from my original drawings, and I will need a detachable steering wheel.
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Graham Hill · « **Reply #1 on:** 15 January 2019, 11:24:20 am »

That's a really great start Chris and keep up the build journal for everybody.
It will be good to catch up with you again at Stretton, consider yourself booked for some more drive time in my MG. (if you can stand the pain!).

ChrisS · « **Reply #2 on:** 15 January 2019, 12:23:56 pm »

Sorry, the pics seem to have come up a bit large, should I have reduced them somehow??

TheGiantTribble · « **Reply #3 on:** 15 January 2019, 02:22:58 pm »

The pictures seem fine to me.
And great car choice, always liked ERA's myself.
Cockpit size is a compromise but very important to get correct, the first time I tried
to build a CK, an ERA 'E' type, I could get in but not out...opps!

ChrisS · « **Reply #4 on:** 20 January 2019, 08:26:20 am »

A big day yesterday, as I started building the real thing, no more mock up! I'm using 12mm ply for the floor and 9mm for the sides although having read Rhys's Kim journal, I think I could have gone lighter. I will probably have to make some relieving cuts to allow the side panels to bend where I want. I had some 25mm ash left over from a previous project which I am using for the joints. I plan to do the tub first, then construct the chassis round it.

I've bought an axle, carriers, hubs etc for the rear from Gemini, but I'm holding back on the front as I am still unsure about springing and stub axles/bearings and I haven't managed to source my wheels yet.

RhysN · « **Reply #5 on:** 20 January 2019, 09:34:41 am »

I don't think you need relieving cuts Chris.
Once you have decided on the curve, set up a few pieces of timber on a work table, bits of 3 x 2 at right angles to the side panels, lay your ply on top, then cover with towels (charity shop to save being castigated?) and wet them with hot water. Even better to use a fairly hot iron and get the ply soaked and you will be surprised how supple it becomes. Put some weights on the top and let it settle. Once it's dry you will have your curved sides. The more effort you put to jigging it, the closer to your required shape. I suggest cutting the sides before curving. In reality the ERA has very little shape until you get to the back axle, which is where the tub on my ERA ended. There is a brief bit on mine, on www.gittrevillegp.com, then work through "The Cars", mine is in Cars B, but there is a mountain of info there so have a look at the lot. All those cars showing with differentials have removed them.
Don't forget to have a left and a right, guess how I know this!

ChrisS · « **Reply #6 on:** 09 February 2019, 02:03:50 pm »

Work is going to stop now for a month as I will be away visiting family, so here's a quick progress photo!

Nothing glued yet or welded, the whole thing is held together with clamps and ratchet straps! I need to weld up the chassis as a priority when I return, stop it moving around!

I decided to try making the grille surround from mdf, some way to go on that yet, work in progress!

RhysN · « **Reply #7 on:** 09 February 2019, 05:01:00 pm »

Looks great Chris. Plenty of time to think little details while you are away

ChrisS · « **Reply #8 on:** 02 April 2019, 01:26:10 pm »

I've now got my wheels, I'm using 2 C90 rears and 2 C90 fronts. I've fitted the driven wheels with 37 x 25 bearings and mated them to Gemini rear hubs.
I pressed out the wheel studs and cut off the Gemini boss to leave a flush surface. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Drilled new 10mm dia holes (100mm PCD) [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Filed 4 slots in the Honda hub [ Guests cannot view attachments ] [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
Made cover plate to fit where the cush drive used to be. (4mm steel) [ Guests cannot view attachments ]
All bolted up. [ Guests cannot view attachments ]

Graham Hill · « **Reply #9 on:** 02 April 2019, 06:05:34 pm »

Keep up the detail of the build posts Chris, it's what this site needs to encourage others. Thanks also for making the trip to Coventry at the weekend it was good to catch up again.

RhysN · « **Reply #10 on:** 03 April 2019, 03:21:39 pm »

Looking good, I'm curious as to why you have put bearings in the rear wheels.

ChrisS · « **Reply #11 on:** 03 April 2019, 07:08:57 pm »

Yes, there is no rotation so I could have bushed them but the bearings were available and cheap. I suppose there is a chance that they might start pitting after a while, we'll see.

ChrisS · « **Reply #12 on:** 10 April 2019, 09:04:47 am »

Here are some pictures re-assembling my rear wheels, it's a first for me but there are plenty of youtube videos to follow. I bought a spoke spanner, ebay £2, but the hardest part was the dismantling as I wanted to save the spokes. WD40 shifted most of them but the stubborn ones needed a blast with the blow torch.

Steve Cole · « **Reply #13 on:** 11 April 2019, 04:56:26 pm »

I’ve never done anything like this Chris. How do you get it all balanced and running true?

ChrisS · « **Reply #14 on:** 11 April 2019, 08:21:51 pm »

You have to mount the wheel so that it can spin freely, see pic above, then fix a batten or similar to use as a gauge ( I used a steel rule). THen by following a process of loosening and tightening you need to first adjust for concentricity and then for side to side. Finally tighten to an even tension all round. Proper wheelbuilders use torque wrenches, but I just keep going until they all ping nicely! No doubt after 20 mins on a dirt track I'll find out if that was good enough!

Perhaps if anyone is interested I can put a more detailed explanation in the technical section.

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