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Author Topic: MG 'M' Type. Brooklands 'Double 12' Racer  (Read 166 times)

Graham Hill

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MG 'M' Type. Brooklands 'Double 12' Racer
« on: 11 January 2019, 06:39:34 pm »
I chose the MG midget 'M' type partly because it is a small car to start with and therefore would not lose proportion when reduced in size to comply with the Stevenson's guide with respect to wheelbase and track.

I purchased a junked commercial 'BIZKart' from a local circuit and was able to salvage the following components for reuse: rear 30mm axle, rear wheel hubs, locking axle spacers, driven sprocket carrier, master brake cylinder and caliper, steering column with attached pitman arm.

The engine-bolt locating locating pattern was identical for my new Loncin G200, so I cut out the relevant section of old frame and welded into my new frame to shortcut the build.
The new chassis is 75 x 25 16 gauge tube which I welded with a stick welder (not easy without blowing holes!)

The tub sides and floor are 12mm ply, the remaining sections are 4mm ply to allow bending to curve.
The bonnet, apron and skirts are covered in 1.2mm aluminum curved to shape and screw fixed directly to the ply beneath. The remainder of the ply body, including the boat tail are covered with GRP for strength utilising twill weave fabric in lieu of chopped strand mat, thereby allowing the weave to show through for a 'fabric' effect.

The wheels are from a pair of Honda 125's. They are 17" x 1.4" but heavier section steel than the C50-C90 series. The hub bearing has an OD of 40mm, which meant a selection of new bearings was readily available.

The foot-pedals are pretty simple go-kart items, bought second hand (ebay). The seat squab is from an old office chair. The steering wheel is aluminum and from an old tractor; I fabricated a spacer boss from an old brass towel rail and connected to a new quick-release hub (ebay).

Other components came new from Gemini Karts: Loncin G200 engine, Comet TAV, driven sprocket and chain, throttle cable, tie rods, axle bearings.

The springs are from Midland Motor Springs, but I ordered them 5mm thick, 4mm would have been more appropriate and others have learnt from this.

It goes and stops pretty well but I will change the current rear free-wheel set up to drive both rear wheels, this should make it more predictable when cornering hard. The engine is stock apart from the governor being removed.
The steering is very lively and I will be trying to improve this together with softening up the front springs further before another major outing.

Any questions on detailing let me know.


« Last Edit: 12 January 2019, 08:21:54 am by Graham Hill »

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