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Author Topic: Riley Dobbs special  (Read 514 times)

sjc56

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Riley Dobbs special
« on: 30 November 2020, 12:37:53 pm »
 I have been busy in the garage getting some work done on my chassis, Iím building it out of aluminium channel, although this should be lighter than steel, in this case I donít think so because it is quite thick but more importantly it was free, canít be that bad then.
 
The tub and body work is going to be plywood, I have gone with a mix of 9mm and 4mm.
As this car has an off set body, I have made the chassis slightly wider than Stevenson classic to try and keep in proportion and allow me to fit in it. I was going to make it 66Ē but again to try and keep it looking right, I have reluctantly added 3Ē to the wheel base.
I would prefer shorter wheel base as this would turn tighter corners better.

 I managed to buy an engine on eBay, although my son collected for me, Iíll get that next time Iím down south, Iíll need to start searching for all the running gear now.

I got the floor and seat base in yesterday, keeping weight distributions in mind, I will keep the seat back slightly and more upright to help put more weight to the front, I plan to use different thickness of foam when upholstering to adjust this position.

 The plan today is to start forming the bulk heads and ribs to get some shape, I have done some basic sizing with thin ply to get some idea where weíre going with this.
Here are some picís so far.

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Applejack

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Re: Riley Dobbs special
« Reply #1 on: 30 November 2020, 04:07:09 pm »
Interesting you using alloy for the chassis will you be welding or bolting the cross sections.

sjc56

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Re: Riley Dobbs special
« Reply #2 on: 30 November 2020, 06:32:41 pm »
At the moment I have cut some of the channel up to make brackets and bolted it altogether, it is all 6 mm and 8mm thick. The floor is keeping it all in shape and Iíll cut some Ali gussets for the corners later.
I am making the body so it can be separated from the chassis by unbolting 12 bolts, only leave the floor in place. Once I reach a certain stage Iíll separate it, and glue (with PU glue) and bolt the floor to the chassis, then finish all the body before painting the lot. Being able to separate it, then if I feel it needs to be welded, it shouldnít be too hard, although I would have to get someone to do that for me.
The issue I am trying to deal with is the chassis is a bit soft but I donít think itís because itís not welded, this will stiffen up as the body gets made. Iíd rather it a little soft when finished as itíll be easier to stiffen rather than the other way round.

StefanN

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Re: Riley Dobbs special
« Reply #3 on: 01 December 2020, 07:43:14 am »
Really interested to see how you get on with the aluminium chassis.   Itís great weíve got so many different approaches being tried.

It looks from the pictures like the floor is at the rail height.  Youíve probably go this sorted, but just in case, itís worth noting the lessons that have been learned about keeping the centre of gravity low -  in particular, the driver.  Some designs drop the seat tub below the rails, others have an under slung chassis.

sjc56

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Re: Riley Dobbs special
« Reply #4 on: 01 December 2020, 10:20:01 am »
Hi Stefan,
 Your right about the c of g, the floor sits on the bottom of the channel and the back of the seat angles down from there to sit below by 65mm, but I plan on using maybe 75 mm foam in the upholstery to adjust the height. I have planned on 17Ē wheels which proportions are based round, but there could be a tweak there to adjust the c of g although this could be an expensive tweak and possibly be getting away from the ethos of the cyclekart thing.

sjc56

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Re: Riley Dobbs special
« Reply #5 on: 02 February 2021, 02:19:46 pm »
Hi everyone,
Although work on my Riley has taken a bit of a back seat until I move house. Surprisingly the house sold quickly under the COVID lock down.

I was able get the seat altered and upholstered over the weekend. I stripped and altered an old cobra bucket seat I had, then cut the headrest off to reshape the top to make it more like the inspiration car and also made it a little narrower at the front.

I had saved some leather from an old sofa I was throwing out, so that worked out well. I wouldĎve liked to dye it a different colour but thatís for another time. Hereís some pictures.

StefanN

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Re: Riley Dobbs special
« Reply #6 on: 02 February 2021, 02:46:38 pm »
Nice work on the seat.  What's the covering material?   Any tips for sewing heavy material like that?  Is it a walking-foot or regular sewing machine?

sjc56

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Re: Riley Dobbs special
« Reply #7 on: 02 February 2021, 04:19:53 pm »
Hi Stefan,
This leather is about 1mm thick, the foam is actually carpet underlay as I didnít have any 10mm blue foam that I would normally use, for a seat in this situation it doesnít matter.  When I retired I did a course in auto upholstery and set myself up for that.
 Yes, I have a commercial walking foot machine, itís certainly not the most expensive out there but more than adequate.
 A domestic machine would probably drive a needle through soft leather When only double thickness but not crossings over seams try turning the machine by hand in these areas, another problem is the amount the presser foot will lift. You also get needles for sewing leather as they cut through as apposed to piercings it.

Stuart

crozier5

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Re: Riley Dobbs special
« Reply #8 on: 03 February 2021, 10:52:54 am »
Hi,
When making a new Touneau cover for one of the trikes I was able to sew two thicknesses of "Double Duck and an edging Bias Binding top and bottom. My domestic "Singer" coped well with only occasional hand easing when starting.
Not tried leather but am confident that using the correct needle the machine would cope well.
The amount of "lift" of the pressure foot can be a problem at doublings and joints but I was able to faf about and get past that point.

sjc56  How are you doing the ribbed back do you fold a seam and stitch it then move 2inches then fold and stitch again etc

Billy   aka  Ayrflyer

sjc56

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Re: Riley Dobbs special
« Reply #9 on: 03 February 2021, 01:01:03 pm »
Hi Billy,
 The rib or flutes are done as you say by folding the fabric over and sewing very close to the edge,
 what you have to work out is the size between your guide lines as the guide lines on the fabric will be slightly wider than the guide lines on the foam, this is easily worked out on scrap but use the same fabric as your finished work.

 On this occasion I was able to use chip foam because the leather would be stiff enough to bury into the chip foam. With softer fabric like vinyl or Alcantara blue foam would be better. You could also just stitch straight though the face but the stitching would be visible unlike blind stitching like the method I used.

Stuart